Trip Journals: Africa | Cambodia | China/Bangkok/Singapore | Europe | Europe Cruise | Greece | Haiti | Iberia (Spain / Portugal) | India / Kashmir | Israel / Jordan / Egypt | Italy | Maldives | New Zealand / Sydney | Peru / Machu Picchu | Poland | Russia / Baltic | Scotland | South America | Sri Lanka | Vietnam
December 15, 2005 to January 9, 2006 (23 days) 2005/2006
This was a month-long trip in a carryon bag for $2552 USD with Explore Worldwide http://www.explore.co.uk/ .
Sri Lanka was the first part of this trip with Adventure Center www.adventurecenter.com.
The second part of the trip
to The Maldives on a Voyages Maldives boat www.voyagesmaldives.com.
TABLE OF CONTENTS/p>
Introduction
Travel Tips for this trip, Web Sites, Cost, Food, Weather, Languages in Sri Lanka,
About Sri Lanka, About Monks, UNESCO Sites
Day 0 Getting There Depart Thursday Dec 15 Arrive Sunday Dec 18
Day 1 Sunday Dec 18. Join tour Colombo / Negombo
Day 2 Monday Dec 19 Tile Factory, Coconut Shell Processing, Toddy Tapping, Hindu Temple
Day 3 Tuesday Dec 20 In Anuradhapura; Mihintale
Day 4 Wednesday Dec 21 Aukana, Dambulla, Batik Factory, Elephant Ride
Day 5 Thursday Dec 22 Polonnaruwa, Jeep Safari
Day 6 Friday Dec 23 Sigiriya, Wood Carving, Spice Garden; Kandy Tooth Temple
Day 7 Saturday Dec 24 Kandy Botanical Gardens, Gem Shop, Elephant Orphanage, Cultural Show
Day 8 Sunday Dec 25 T-shirt Shop, Univ, Tea Factory, Christmas Drive to the Tea Plantation
Day 9 Monday Dec 26 Adams Peak
Day 10 Tuesday Dec 27 Train to Bandarawela, Nuwara Eliya
Day 11 Wednesday Dec 28 Waterfalls, Buduruwagala, Drive to Unawatuna
Day 12 Thursday Dec 29 Galle Tour
Day 13 Friday Dec 30 Unawatuna
Day 14 Saturday Dec 31 Colombo Tour, River Boat Ride, New Years Eve
Day 15 Sunday Jan 1 Colombo, National Museum
Day 16 to Day 22 See The Maldive Journal
Fly to Male, Hotel, Speed Boat Transfer to Dhoni moored at a nearby island,
Cruise to Fenboa Finolhu on Meemu Atoll, Sail to Dhiggaru, Sail to Felidhoo; village visit, Sail to Emboodhoo Finolhu, Cruise back to Male; sightseeing tour.
Day 22. Sunday. Jan 8 Tour ends Male
Adam's Peak - Sri Pada Information from Various Web Sites, The pilgrimage to the sacred mountain dates back to 100 BC The Way Up, Sunrise on Top, The Footprint, Religious Sri Pada How safe is the climb up Adam's Peak? Perils on the Peak, Guidelines for Adam's Peak first-timers
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Sri Lanka pictures by Galen Frysinger: http://www.galenfrysinger.com/sri_lanka.htm
You cannot have your picture taken with your back towards Budda!
Arrive a day before tour starts to rest because it's non-stop go go go from day 1 to day 10.
Go barefoot to toughen up the bottom of your feet! It will help you enjoy the temples more if you are not agonizing over your tender tootsies. You can wear socks, so bring some thick padded socks for the temples.
A temples where you must remove your shoes, swap a shoe with someone else because no one is going to take a mis-matched pair of shoes.
At temples you must cover your shoulders and knees, so make sure you pack appropriately. I would say that is true for entire trip also, especially visits to local towns.
For ladies, a skirt is not such a good idea at temples where you must cover your knees. If there is a lot of climbing (like Mihintale) you can't be holding your skirt because you need both of hands to hold on!
Do all the optionals. Even if you've done something five times before, every time you do it, something else unique happens. I've done safari's, but this was a first when the jeep got stuck in the mud. That was great fun!
Take Malaria pills. I did not and I was fine (so far I'm fine one month after the trip, but malaria may not reveal symptoms for 6 months to a year!). However, the pills are like insurance - just buy it/do it for your own peace of mind.
It doesn't matter if you miss something (significant) on a tour/trip. If you don't feel well, you will have bad memories, so it is better to relax and rest and recover instead of pushing to see and do everything. If you feel you can't do it, don't make yourself do it. (Both Steve and Clare made a good decisions in Mihintale.)
There is plenty of water at 50 cents a bottle on the bus and snacks (cookies) every day at 11, but sometimes you have late lunch or dinner, so carry some food munchies with your.
On LAX to TOKYO flight. Sit on the right side of the plane so you see the coastline.
For better airport bathrooms In the LAX International Terminal, bathrooms on the fifth floor are cleaner. You don't need an authorization to enter an airport lounge if you just want to use the bathroom.
For better bathroom in Narita in Japan - Take elevator to 4th floor and use the bathrooms up there. You only need a pass to get into the lounges, not the bathroom.
$2,220 Explore Worldwide / Buddha's Island + Maldive Dhoni Cruise 18-Dec-05 to 08-Jan-06 Tour
$ 38 First Class Airfare using 140,000 frequent flyer miles. I paid $38 for a $10,000 ticket!
$ 294 Trip Insurance. Adventure Center uses USI Travel Insurance Services. Tel: 800-937-1387.
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$2,552 Total cost of 23-day trip. That is $110 per day. That was cheaper than 10 days in Scotland last June!
$134 Cost to get 461 pictures 4x6 inch printed
Sri Lanka local currency is Rupee (Rs). Exchange Rate $1 USD = Rs 101.930 Rs. That made it very easy for me.
Rs 500 was USD $5. Rs 10,000 was USD $100. I exchanged about $300 USD to Rupees.
Maldives local currency is Rufiya. Exchange rage was 1 USD is = 12.75 Rufiya.
I did not change any money in the Maldives here. I used US dollars when I wanted to buy something on the islands. I got Maldivian Rufiyaa for the change.
Weather
Perfect temperatures in January. It was definitely hotter in the southern Atolls. Sleeping at night was uncomfortable one night when we had to close the windows when it rained. I wore long pants one night to dinner when there was cool breeze. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=Maldives
Pictures: http://www.galenfrysinger.com/sri_lanka.htm and http://www.galenfrysinger.com/maldives.htm
Georgia Buddhist Vihara www.gavihara.org Theravada Buddhist Temple and Vipassana Meditation Center - The Georgia Buddhist Vihara is dedicated to the promotion of the Theravada Buddhist teachings through the practice of meditation, study of Buddhist scriptures, Dhamma School for children and regular religious ceremonies. The Vihara was established in 2000 in Atlanta, Georgia.
http://www.srilankatourism.org/
http://www.worldheritagesite.org/countries/srilanka.html
http://www.explorelanka.com/
http://www.lankalibrary.com/
Flight Tracker http://www.flightview.com/TravelTools/default.asp
Travel Warnings and Consular Information Sheets http://travel.state.gov/ and www.ijet.com
World Health Organization: http://www.who.int/en/ Medical assistance: www.iamat.org
I booked my own flights on Delta http://www.delta.com and Singapore air http://www.singaporeair.com/saa/. Everyone else seemed to use Emirates http://www.emirates.com/. There is also Sri Lankan air http://wwi.srilankan.aero/travelplanner/routemap.asp
Travel Insurance - See www.ustravelinsurance.org. To compare policies see www.insuremytrip.com and www.quotewright.com and www.quotetravelinsurance.com. Med evacuation www.medjetassistance.com and www.internationalsos.com and www.medexassist.com.
Other Sri Lanka tours: http://www.worldheritagetours.com/, http://www.adventures-abroad.com/ tour LK1, http://www.sitatours.com/ http://www.sitatours.com/india/srilanka.html, http://www.intrepidtravel.com/ tour SPA, SAA, http://www.budgettravel.com/, http://www.aseatica-tours.com/, http://www.thegreatoutdoors.com.au/
Singapore Tours from the airport: www.visitsingapore.com Transit passengers with 5 hours can register for free sightseeing tours. operated by WTS Travel and Tours Pte Ltd. Colonial Tour, Cultural Tour, Lifestyle tour
Food is not expensivein this country (compared to the cost of food in the U.S.). "Hoppers" are thin pancakes, like crepes. Put food (usually curry) in it and roll it up to eat it.
Beer USD $.80to $2. Cola $1. Alcohol drinks $2-$3, Dinner USD $4 - $9 for buffets.
I was so worried about eating the food in Sri Lanka because I found out when I went to an India restaurant in Atlanta that I do not like curry. But curry was different in Sri Lanka and I loved it! What I discovered is that they don't know how to cook curry dishes in America and that's why I didn't like it. They really knew how to cook curry in Sri Lanka.
However, chefs in Sri Lanka did NOT know how to cook western food. The food on the Christmas and New Years buffets was extraordinarily beautiful, but really not that tasty. Even the desserts were lacking the TONS of sugar that I am accustomed to eating. I really did eat healthier during the trip. Since I've been back, I feel like I'm eating so much junk food and crap. I need to try the "detox" regimen that we learned at the spice garden.
Weather
Year round high temperatures in coastal regions: Colombo averages 80 F (27 C). It is much cooler in the hills with Kandy averaging 68 F F(20 C) and Nuwara Eliya down to 16 C.60 F Springlike temperatures in the hill country, but chilly evenings. Two monsoon periods: Apr-Sep when rain is confined to the southwest; and Oct-Mar when it falls in the northeast.
Phone Calls
Time difference is 11 hours . So, Sri Lanka 9 pm = Florida 10 AM (11 hours behind). Mobile Telephones use the GSM 900/1800 network. Sri Lanka Telecommunication Authority http://www.explorelanka.com/number.pdf
To Call From Sri Lanka To Florida dial the following number: 00 + 1 + Area Code + the number
The international dialing code for Sri Lanka is 94. Local Codes - Anuradhapura 025 , Colombo 01 , Kandy 08 , Negombo 031 , Polonnaruwa 02. To Call From United States To Negombo, Sri Lanka to dial 011 + 94 +31 + the number. To call Sunset Beach hotel 011 + 94 +31 + 222-2350
This is SAME TEXT in two different languages
The left side is Sinhala The right side is Tamil
Sinhala on the left English in the middle Tamil on the right
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A pear-shaped island at the tip of India.
25,332 square miles. About the size of West Virginia
267 miles from North to South and 140 miles East to West.
826 miles of coastline (700 miles of this coast line was affected by the Tsunami).
Sri Lanka is separated from India by the narrow Palk Straits.
Around 200 BC, Sinhalese arrived. Kingdoms developed through 1200.
Recorded history begins in the 6th century BC, and the royal line of Sinhalese kings was maintained for over 2,000 years.
Relics of this great dynasty abound and can be found in such historic sites as Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya.
Around the 3 rd century BC, the Indian king Ashoka was converted to Buddhism and his son, Mahinda, came south to the island to spread the message of the Sage. A sapling of the Sacred Bo-Tree under which Buddha had received enlightenment was planted and still flourishes to this day. Roughly 70% of the islanders are Buddhist, and many Buddhist countries in Asia look to Sri Lanka for spiritual leadership.
1500's Portuguese
1600's Dutch
1805 put under British rule
1948 became independent Ceylon
1972 name changed to Sri Lanka means "Island of Philosophy".
1983 Tamil Tigers began fighting for a homeland in North and East. Tamil minority against the Sinhalese majority.
2002 cease fire brokered by Norway. Tigers are on terrorists lists in 5 countries.
2004 tsunami killed 30,000 and displaced 1 million people.
2006-7 major fighting again in 25-year conflict. 70,000 killed. Govt finally recaptured area from the Tamil terrorists.
Highest mountain is 8281. Adams peak (4th highest) is 7300. You start climbing at 4000 and you climb 3300 feet up. 4.5 miles long.
Election for President every 6 years. There are 222 in house of representatives.
Population 19 million It is increasing 1.3 %. Muslim and Catholics do not follow family planning program.
74% Sinhalese, 18% Tamil. 7% Moor 35% under 14 years old 25% 14-25 year old
Religion 69% Buddhism 15% Hinduism 7% Muslim 7% Roman Catholic 0.7% Protestant
There are 13 universities with a total of 48,000 students. Univ education is free. At the university students live in accommodations
A lake is a called a "tank". There are no natural lakes in SR. They are all man made lakes. There are 16,000 man-made tanks in SR.
If you have $40,000 USD and you can get citizenship here. You can get 12% interest (that is high!) on your bank account savings. If you need a loan, you pay 11% interest (that is also high!) on a 1 year loan.
Land cost 10 x 10 foot 3 million Rs in Colombo.
Outside Colombo, you can get a 3 bedroom house close to the road for Rs 2 million (USD $20,000)
A "dagoba" is a Buddhist stupa
The island was 60% jungle. Now it is only 18% jungle. Absolutely no logging is allowed. You need a state permit to transport logs. In the bare areas , they now cultivate rice. And they know that they need to plant more trees when they cut some down.
Electricity is hydropower.
Labor Force: 38% Agriculture, 17% industry, 45% services (1998 estimate)
(United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka (we visit all of these).
Ancient Ancient City of Polonnaruwa 10 AD (1982)
Ancient City of Sigiriya and Rock Fortress 5 AD (1982)
Sacred City of Anuradhapura 5 BC (1982)
Old Town of Galle and its Dutch Fortifications 17 AD (1988)
Sacred City of Kandy 15 AD (1988)
Sinharaja Forest Reserve (1988)
Golden Cave Temples of Dambulla 1 BC (1991)
UNESCO seeks to encourage the identification, protection and preservation of cultural and natural heritage around the world considered to be of outstanding value to humanity. As World Heritage sites, they can
(i) Obtain further protection from the threats of destruction due to development proposal
(iii) To obtain international assistance for conservation of them
(iv) To obtain international attraction as sites of cultural tourism
For more information about World Heritage sites: http://whc.unesco.org/en/home/ Note: There are no World Heritage Sites in Figi or Tahiti.
It hit on December 26, 2004
230,000 to 300,000 estimated death toll
15 nations recorded deaths from the waves
9.1 magnitude of the eathquake that caused the waves. One of the most powerful on record. Tore open the seabed off Indonesia
1,500 - number of Hiroshima atomic bombs that wuold have to be detonated simulaneously to equal the earthquake's release of energy
33 feet height of the largest wave coming inland
Per Lucian: Water flooded for about 20 minutes. It started at the 8:40 at the NE tip of SR. There was a communications to Kandy about the danger. However, the people in that office were not there to pass on the warning. They should have been there doing their job. It would have saved many lives. At 9:30 it hit the Southern shore.
From the Sri Lanka Sunday Observer, December 25,2005:
As of Feb 7, 2005:
Of the 248 hotels in Sri Lanka, 137 were affected by the tsunami.
Sri Lanka has 1449 km or railway track. 11% was affected by the tsunami. On February 14, 2006 rail service from Galle to Colombo was running.
Sri Lanka has 96,695 km of roads. 500 km (0.5%) was affected by the tsunami.
Tourism is the 4th largest contributor to Sri Lanka GDP , contributing US$430 million in 2004. there were 17,000 tourists on the island when the tsunami struck.
Sri Lanka's wildlife survived unscathed due in part to a sixth sense - or more likely to ultra sensitive hearing
The highest density of leopards anywhere in the world is found in Sri Lanka. 1.1 leopards per square km.
The only World Heritage site affected was Galle Fort which was left undamaged because it was protected by the ramparts.
Reports of dangers of landmines unearthed by the tsunami are greatly exaggerated.
There have been no reported incidents of disease or sign of any epidemic.
US$2767 million in financial aid has been pledged so far.
Article by Jayantha Sri Nissanka
In Sri Lanka It took over 35,000 lives, injured 21,000, and displaced one million people.
150,000 persons lost their main source of income.
Value of lost assets is US $900 million.
75% of fishing fleet destroyed.
23,000 acres of salinated agricultural land.
98,000 houses damaged.
5,000 people have got permanent housing during the year.
93,000 families are still in temporary shelters. (they may be there another 2 years)
Each family will be granted Rs 100,000 ($1000 USD) to repair a partially damaged house and Rs. 250,000 ($2500 USD) to rebuild a fully damaged house. There is a strict verification process. Money is distributed in four installments. 55,525 families have drawn the first installment and only 491 have got the last (fourth) one.
250,000 households receive two installment (out of four) of Rs.5000 ($500 USD) and food worth Rs.375 per week. About 165,000 received the third installment.
They stopped all breakouts of water bourne diseases which "prevented recording of any post-tsunami deaths."
From www.bouncebacksrilanka.org Sri Lanka Rebuilds:
In the aftermath of the Tsunami on 26th December, the Ministry of Tourism and the Sri Lanka Tourist Board have developed short to long term recovery plans for 15 coastal resort towns for restoration. These resort-towns will be master-planned, taking into consideration zoning regulations and the needs of the community. Commerce and livelihoods will be recapitalised even as property, plant and equipment are restored.
In a cruel twist of fate, nature has presented Sri Lanka with an unique opportunity, and out of this great tragedy will come a world class tourism destination.
A post-tsunami home. It looks exactly like the place I stayed in the Dominican Republic mission trip.
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Sri Lankan Daily News and Reports, Sept 17, 2005 and BBC News Sept 16, 05
The Sri Lankan Daily News reported in September that the government's cabinet has decided to lower the age of consent for sex from 16 to 13 because, according to Minister Nimal Siripala de Silva, too many men were being arrested under the old law. Also in September, Nepal's Supreme Court ordered the government to ban the traditional practice of confining women to cow sheds during their menstrual periods.
Atlanta newspaper November 18; 2005
Presidential election in Sri Lanka marred by grenade attacks and intimidation that kept many Tamils from the polls.Violence erupted in Akkaraiapattu, 140 east of Colombo. Rebels tossed grenades into a mosque during morning prayers, killing at least four Muslim worshippers.
International Herald Tribune January 9, 2006.
A suicide bomber destroyed a Sri Lankan gunboat and 13 of the 15 sailors aboard were killed. It is the most lethal attack since a 2002 cease-fire between the government and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE). This could lead to full-scale war again.
January 29, 2006 Atlanta newspaper:
Sri Lankans fee to India amid mounting violence. Hindu Tamil's have been fleeing since the civil war in 1983. In southern India 100 camps house 65,000 refugees. "We can't go to some areas because my young son would be forcibly recruited."
January 26, 2006 Atlanta paper:
Sri Lanka leader pack at the peace table. A 2002 cease fire halted a civil war that killed 65,000 people, but violence has worsened since November's election. No date is set for the negotiations to be held in Switzerland.
Miami Herald by Marjie Lambert
"Officials plead for tourists in tsunami-ravaged areas". Hundreds of tourists were among the more than 160,000 who were killed [on December 26,2004]. Information: www.pata.org, www.sawadee.com, www.world-tourism.org, www.tourismpartners.org.
Journal Book 1, Page 1, Hour 1.
At 5:00 am I left the house. My car was covered in ice. I drove my car into the garage and Dad drove me to the airport in his car. Then he continued driving on to sunny Florida for the winter.
6:50 am in the airport and my plane leaves at 8:30. Everything is in order.
I am excited so my heart was beating fast in the first line at the check in. The sign for that line said "International" I got to the counter and she says I'm in the wrong line. She processes me anyway.
I don't have any checked luggage. I have everything I need for 27 days in a carry on bag. I really can't think of anything else that I need. I'm sure I have some things that I won't need, use or wear.
I used 140,000 frequent flier miles to fly first class on this trip. I paid $38
for a $10,000 ticket. After all, it's literally on the other side of the globe!
I booked the trip 10 months in advance in order to get very good flights on Delta and Singapore Air. It takes FOUR DAYS to get there!!!!
Arrive Atlanta airport 3 hours before flight.
Depart Atlanta first class on Delta at 8:30am 15 Dec 2005. Flight time is 4 hours, 36 minutes.
Arrive Los Angeles, CA at 10:37pm 15 Dec 2005. Layover is 2 hours, 20 minutes.
Depart Los Angeles, CA first class on Singapore Air at 1:05pm 15 Dec 2005. Flight time is 10 hours 50 min to Tokyo, layover 2 hours, Flight time is 7 hours to Singapore.
Arrive Singapore at 1:30am 17 Dec 2005. Layover is 21 hours.
Depart Singapore first class on Singapore Air at 10:45pm 17 Dec 2005 Flight time is 3 hours 10 minutes.
Arrive Colombo, Sri Lanka at 12:30am 18 Dec 2005.
Total travel time: 60 hours
This is running commentary of my travel experience. I kept all this
travel detail so I can read it and remember this part of my trip. If you want to
read about the tour skip down to the Day 1 topic
I'm thinking now that I will NOT do the Adams Peak hike. I need higher socks. My legs are cold. I guess I could wear 2 pairs of pants if I do the hike.
Atlanta to Los Angeles is 4 hr, 36 minutes flight time. It took 40 minutes to reach cruising altitude of 36,000 feet. Real cloth hot towels.
I have a Tyvek cover for my tray and a hot breakfast. Really good scrambled eggs, potatoes, sausage , roll, fresh fruit. About an hour before landing they offered snacks - chips, granola bar, and another drink.
I got coffee.
My body time is 1 pm. It's 3 hours earlier in LA. I'm wanting some chocolate ice cream now. I am sure I will find some in the airport.
10:50 start standing in line to go through security in the LAX International terminal. Board at 12:45. This line is incredibility long.
I'm glad I didn't stop for ice cream. It looks like the long line in Atlanta, but this line it is stretched out straight from on end of the terminal to the other end.
There is an entrance to the gates at both ends of the terminal and both lines stretch the entire length of the terminal. Lots of very anxious looking people.
I think I stood on that line about 30 minutes or less.
I wore my shoes through security and it was fine. In the US, they usually make you remove shoes. I located the gate, then headed up to the fifth floor to the Kris Lounge.
The restrooms were at the end of the long hall of lounges for each airline.
If you are in the LAX International Terminal, bathrooms on the fifth floor are cleaner. You don't need an authorization to enter an airport lounge if you just want to use the bathroom.
The Kris Lounge was empty when I got there at 11:30. Everything that you could imagine to eat or drink was free. Sandwiches with no crust, hot soup, hot food bar, drinks, alcohol. Soda, juice. coffee bar.
The lounge was full within 15 minutes.
They ate all the Ramen noodles. I ate my lunch, some cheeses, coke, brushed my teeth, relaxed then ready to go again at 12:30 (3:30 body time).
I did not sleep at all last night. Woke up every 20 minutes. I know I had packed everything that I needed, I probably packed too much. So I was not worried about forgetting something.
I think I just wanted to get going. Get on the plane and get there and get the show on the road.
I left the lounge around 12:30 and they were boarding when I got to the gate. In 2001 used frequent flier miles to go first class round trip on Malaysian Air to Vietnam.
It's been four years of accruing and saving miles so I'm about to see what 140,000 miles for a "free" (38.00 USD) on Singapore Air bought me.
On the Atlanta to LAX flight, the seats on the Delta flight were 6 across (three sets of two).
Lots of room in the seat and in front of the seat. Foot rests. This flight on Singapore Air is totally different. Enter the plane, turn left to the front.
There is one seat in the first row in the nose of the plane. Three seats in the second row where I am next to the window. Twelve seats total in this part of the place.
Every person has their own pod. The wings on the side of the seats give you a private little living/bedroom area. I was so impressed when I saw the seat
I have the flight attendant, "Irene" too of picture of me in my pod. This makes into a twin size bed!.
LAX to Tokyo is 10 hours 50 minutes. So 1 pm to 11 pm arrive in Tokyo. I guess we refuel , then go on to Singapore. We are supposed to arrive there at 1 am.
They offer "the most comfortable, well-appointed lounge seat in the air today, the Singapore Airlines SkySuite": Indulge in sumptuous amenities, proper turn-down service, fine wines and personalized cuisine.
You'll arrive at your destination pampered, rested, and relaxed.
Amenities and superior comfort: Slippers, sumptuously soft terry-cloth socks, and soft eyeshades. Givenchy-designed sleeper suits and Bvlgari toiletry kits.
The ladies' bag includes lip balm, body lotion, eye mask, and perfume. Turn-down service where they turn your seat into a bed, complete with down-filled mattress, duvet, and a large pillow.
First Class lavatories has cologne and aftershave lotion, moisturizing lotion, toothbrush sets, combs, disposable razors, and shaving foam.
You have a writing kit with postcards, envelopes and a writing pad along with an elegantly designed pen in the personal stationery drawer at your seat. They have a extensive collection of newspapers and magazines.
I took the pajamas, but I don't think I'll change into them on the plane. These really did come in handy later in the trip.
I wore the top as one of my layers on cold nights at the Tea Plantation and on the Adams Peak hike. I gave them to a girl on the Maldives boat because she was sleeping on the top desk every night.
Wow, lunch looks incredible. 8 courses + 3 more. 1. Canapes - satay and peanut sauce 2. Appetizer - caviar or duck liver 3. Soup - Pork broth or crab bisque 4. Salad
5. Main course Halibut, beef stead, vegetables, polenta cake 6. cheeses, 7. fresh fruit, 8. dessert Chocolate Tangerine gateau 9. Bakery rolls, 10. Hot beverage, then finally Pralines.
Then we get a light meat after our evening sleep 1.Appetizer 2. Main course - Beef ribs or Dim Sum 3. Dessert (Verbena orange jelly) 4. Bakery rolls 5. Hot beverage.
From Tokyo to Singapore we get dinner. 8 courses + 3 like lunch. Main course is Cod Fillet, Pork chop or baked vegetables in a tart crust.
The view from my airplane window is incredibly awesome! WOW! We are following the coast north for a long way. We must have passed Washington state by now, maybe in Canada/Alaska.
There are lots of mountains. Miles and miles and miles of coastline. Beautiful country.
TIP for an LAX to Singapore (via TOKYO) flight: Sit on the right side of the plane.
They gave us socks, which covered my cold ankles. We also got an eye cover and slippers. Personal service spreading out the blanket. I feel so pampered. They call each person by name every time they address you.
I think I heard "Mrs. Morris" a hundred times. They just took my lunch order.
Little islands are appearing off the coastline now. 2:15. We've been flying about an hour now. We are getting further away from the coast and higher. Popcorn clouds are appearing. I'm in heaven! What a vacation.
I mean VACATION! This will be one to remember.
But what was I saying that I have a different feeling about this trip. OK I am older , not as energetic. I feel like I'm standing out already. It's easy to spot Americans.
I don't want to be a loud pushy demanding expectant American. But in airplane seat, they do cater to exactly that. So much attention. Oh year, we have silk pillows. Anyway, what was I saying.
My hand is going to really hurt from writing so much. I am not used to this. Typing 10 hours a day I can do, but writing I am not accustomed to so much.
OK here comes the linen table clothes. Each pod must be 10 feet long so they slide the table 4 feet so it sits in front of you. There is a 110 electric outlet beside me.
Also full coverage / sound canceling ear muffs so you can't hear the plane.
2:40 and I only see clouds now. A thick layer of fluff below us.
Table is set.
Napkin, silverware, salt, pepper, butter, bread plate, water glass. Amazing service with a happy smile. They came by with wines. I usually have red so I got a French Cabernet.
The plane is really shaking a lot. I had to hold the glass so the wine didn't splash out.
Drinking some of the wine so glass isn't as full helped the problem also. Just like at home.
Have my glass of red wine before I go to bed. Caviar was wonderful. Not sure what is was served with. Chopped onions, scallions, boiled egg in smaller pieces than the caviar. Salty and good.
Whew, what a meal. Halibut was really good. Skipped the cheese, went for the chocolate.
Time for turn down service and sleep.
I wish we didn't stop in Tokyo. Just get this long haul over with. Then 11 (or 20?) hours in Singapore at their premiere Kris Lounge. I hope I can get a sleeper room.
After I locate Shawn's gate. The plane is really bouncing and shaking.
Really hot towels feel great on my face. There are two bathrooms. They have real towels also. Individual little one for personal use. Fresh flowers and mouthwash also. It's really a nice experience.
So after the huge 8 course lunch, they kept the light on a couple hours after to watch movies. We each have our own little theater. I think I saw over 60 On Demand movies in the Kris magazine.
I flipped the channel and ended up on 40 year old virgin. Very funny flick. About 5:30 decided I better get some sleep. I took a pill (Sonata) then adjusted by seat to lay totally flat.
You still have the big high back with privacy wings on the side. I think I got about four good hours of deep sleep.
They woke us up to get our next menu choices. Yellowtail (or yellow fin?) tuna or Braised beef. I think cow. After this yummy Dungeness crab and remulade sauce. So we must stop in Tokyo.
I'm not getting off. This seat is way to comfortable and private.
I've been to that Tokyo airport International concourse before, more than once. I hope they have added onto it. I met May there in 1993. Geez. 12 years ago! I'm away that time flies by so fast.
May has been such an understanding tolerant friend. For so many years.
The trouble and turmoil she goes through is beyond me. Where does she get that inner strength. I digress.
So after a 4 hours sleep. Crab appetizer, beef very tasty flavor all the way to the bone. It was like a pot roast short ribs. 10:50 and I'm finished. Some odd but good dessert. Jelly to top it off.
And Earl Grey tea to finish all that. What a production. And we do it all over one more time during the 6 hour leg from Tokyo to Singapore.
The toothpicks are individually carved looks like it is turned on a lathe. It's a beautiful little chair leg.
So if it's 11:00 on my watch, that is 2:00 body time am or pm? No idea. Anyway, it's Friday. I wonder how the company Christmas party went yesterday.
15 degrees Fahrenheit in Narita. Land time is 4:50 pm (1 hour earlier than expected because of favorable winds in Alaska.) We are on the ground for 2 hours at Narita so we must deplane (exit).
We are not at a gate because we arrived early so ground transport will take us to the terminal. We come back to the same seats so we can leave stuff on the plane. Just take valuables.
My watch says 11:50 so it looks like I have to move it forward. It's 4:50 pm Friday December 16.
The marking on the tail of the plane says "9VSPB". Check that when I return to make sure I'm getting back on the same plane.
Narita Tokyo Japan
Exit plane get on bus. Arrive terminal, go through security. X-ray carry on. Such a pain for 2 hours. We meet back at Gate 11A and 6:20 pm.
I found the Kris Lounge. It was very crowded. Lots of food. They have chocolate ice cream with caramel. I was too rushed in LAX to find it. This place really does bring back memories.
They have built a lot so this terminal is very big and comfortable now.
I walked by the place where I sat with a couple American guys. I was on my way home and I had a beer with them. Yup, lots of memories in this place. I remember I bought something to get their currency.
Just saw on TV a chemical company filed a law suit against Pfizer. They are our customer. Why am I thinking about work? Stop it.
Life really does not get any better than this. Gold is $499 an ounce. Wow. It does get better. Except for that looming 6-7 hour flight still to go. 20 hour layover, then a final 3 hour flight.
TIP: If I'm going through Narita again to take elevator to 4th floor and use the bathrooms up there. You only need a pass to get into the lounges, not the bathroom.
Kids these days need so much technology. 10? year old girl managing a laptop. She hooked it to the network port, found the electric outlet, played about 5 minutes of games before they had to pack up and go.
Flight time is 7 hours 5 minutes. So if we are leaving 6:45 that means we arrive after 1 am. Holy geez. No, correction, we arrive around 10 am. I am really starting to feel the effects of traveling now.
I think I've been going for 2 days now with that one bout (stretch) of 4 hour sleep.
I'm very tired now.
Dinner is served. Lobster appetizer was really was not that good. Caesar salad was ok. Then the pork chop arrived. It would have been good if I was hungry. It was very thick and tender,
but one bite took 40 chews and lots of water. I ate the asparagus and rice. Canceled dessert when they picked up my plate.
The man in first seat got the "turn down" service. He went to the bathroom and they added a mattress and sheets to his bed. Nice. They put it back to a seat after you woke up.
I just stretched my chair out horizontal. I got a good sleep for a couple hours.
Singapore is 1 hour behind Narita. My watch says 2:20 am so set it to 1:20.
Singapore
We arrived in Singapore Changi Airport Sat Dec 17 at 1:30 am. I'm here from 1:30am to 10:45 pm so that's 21 hours total. Yeow.
The airport was empty void of people, Everything on the first floor was closed. 24 food service on second floor was open.
I had to walk the entire length of the terminal to get to the Kris Lounge. I went straight to a sleeper room. I got the last one. It was very quiet.
The doors don't lock so I put plastic bag and the table against the door, I changed in the airplane pajamas and tried to get some sleep (shut-eye).
8:30 am and I got up and out. This lounge is "one of the largest and most luxurious lounges in the world.
Major facilities: Internet Access, Telephone, Luggage Area, 18 individual shower rooms, 14 Italian-leather slumberettes in the sleeping area, 42-inch plasma TV screens showing
around-the-clock news and sports updates from CNN, BBC, ABN, and ESPN. "
I'm was little recovered from travel since I got a little more sleep. I had a small omelet, one small piece of ham, half a tomato. That did my stomach in.
Digestive cramps getting all that rich airplane food out my system. I ate some pink Pepto Bismol.
My cell (mobile) phone works. All five bars for a full strength signal. It says "SingAir".
After sitting a bit after breakfast (until my stomach settled), I decided to take a shower. I also washed my hair. I had to take a picture of that bathroom.
They provided soap, towels, toothbrush, comb. Anything that you needed.
After my shower I went back to my sleeper room to let my hair dry. I passed out asleep again. I'm was still so tired.
At 3 pm I got myself up and out again. At 4 I was still not feeling hungry. I wasn't drinking enough water.
I did not feel inclined to do a tour. If you have at least 5 hours you can select from a couple different free tours from the airport.
I'm just not up for it. I would have done a tour if I had know about it and psyched myself up for it.
I also could have gone to hotel, but I wanted to try to meet Gwen's daughter at 6 pm here in the airport. I decided instead to just relax and chill out. I love airports so I just walked around the terminal.
I found the "Sky Plex Entertainment Lounge". 8 foot TV screen showing tennis game. 10 other TVs showing news and sports. I saw a trailer about Tamil Tigers attach a helicopter in Sri Lanka. Yeow.
At 6 they could finally had the gate where Gwen's daughter , Shawn, was arriving into the Singapore airport. Her Korean Air flight from Tokyo to Seoul to Singapore arrival at 18:50 (6:50 pm).
I took the train to the other terminal and waited. I have never met Shawn, but I've seen pictures so I recognized her immediately.
She has been in Japan a couple years. She has done a lot of traveling. This trip she was headed to Indonesia. That was such a coincidence to be able to say hi. It is indeed a small world.
I hung out in the airport terminal, ride the train back to the terminal where my gate was located. I had a great beef goulash with mashed potatoes and gravy for dinner. My comfort food.
9 pm, back on the lounge, I stared talking to a man who was also going on to Colombo. He recognized me from the flight from LAX. He went to a hotel in Singapore for our 20 hour layover.
Since it was so late he knew that I was going to Colombo because there are no other flights going out that late. Ivan told me about his companies. Polaris Groups of Companies and Polaris Tours.
He does some work with Australian Medical Mission, upgrading the hospital equipment. He also gives tours of Sri Lanka so if you are going to visit, give him a call or email:
Ivan De Almeida Polaris Tel +94 11 5361400 Mobil +94 773 237555 ia@polarisshipping.net
He shared a lot of information -
Elephant orphanage 9:15 feeing baby till 10 am. Bathing after.
At the Temple of tooth - get there by 11 am or 6 pm.
He knows the right people so he can get us in the Dalada Maligawa inner chamber in Kandy. I should call him to arrange it with our tour.
On the way to Kandy, stop at the Ramboda waterfall.
He recommended Labukale Tea Plantation to see how tea is made.
He even had a CD that he gave me. He plugged in his computer and showed me the promo on the Eco Lodge in the Sinharaja Rainforest. It is very well done with music.
Ivan has been to over 130? Countries. What an amazing passport. 5 thick passports stapled together.
He has 3 brothers (2 are doctors), 2? Sisters. Married, 13 years old daughter Malisha?. He got her a present from Victoria Secret!
I asked Ivan about changing money and getting a taxi. He was very nice to offer to take me to my hotel. Now I hope the taxi driver does not show up. Talk about standing out - that's me.
Obviously from USA. The only blonde hair in the crowd.
OK, I need to go to the gate E3. Christmas carols are playing in the airport. No words, just the music. Geez, still not sure if I'm ready for this whole trip .
Time in Singapore is 22:38. Time in Sri Lanka is 20:38. Flight time is 3:10. ETA 00:12
The Embarkation / Disembarkation card said Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka.
The pilot said it was 79 degree F temp in Colombo. It felt HOT to me. At the airport you walk through a long hallway of retail electronic stores, immigration passport stamp, get luggage,
enter big air conditioned room.
At least 8 banks were all open at 2 am. I learned later that all banks in airport open 24 hours. No locals allowed in at this point. Change money. 101Rs = 1 USD.
"This receipt should be preserved by the guest to facilitate reconversion of the rupee balance, if any foreign currency at the time of departure from Sri Lanka.
Ivan met me inside the airport. We exited to mass pandemonium outside. Hot and people everywhere. I walked out with Ivan then I saw the sign with my name.
I declined his kind offer to take me to the hotel, we said goodbye and I followed the taxi person through the mass of humanity.
I found in on the Internet that " A taxi from the international airport to Negombo should cost Rs.500-600 ($5-6). At the airport Bargain hard because drivers are used to taking advantage of newly arrived tourists."
Explore said the approximate cost for a taxi from the airport is $25.00 - $30.00. The hotel is 16km from the international airport and should take 15-20 minutes taxi ride.
I had arranged for the taxi by calling the hotel the week before my trip. I called the hotel and they confirmed my room reservation and took my arrival flight information.
I was relieved to see the taxi because it would have been a long drive for Ivan.
The taxi dropped me off at the Sunset Beach hotel.
Hotel Sunset Beach 5 Carron Place (off Lewis Place ) Negombo SRI LANKA 031-2222350, 031-2238758 email: sunset@eureka.lk
They showed me to my room. It was nice, very basic. Two twin beds, pushed up against each other. Exactly what I needed.
I got comfortable - it was so nice to take off that bra after wearing it 60 hours! I unpacked what I needed for the night.
I turned on my cell phone and my mobile works! It registered and displayed "Mobiltel". I called direct to Dad and left a voice mail. Then I called T to let family know that I arrived fine.
It's 3 am here so it's Sunday, no Saturday 2 or 4 pm in Florida. Whatever.
(Note: I got the bill in January. The charge for this call was $27 USD. You certainly pay for the convenience. I was just amazed that the direct dial worked!)
Note to self (travel tip) Fig newtons do not travel well.
In the room there was a bible in three languages: Das Neve Testament, Le Nouveau Testament from the Gideons.
I finally got to sleep around 4:30 am.
I arrived this morning when it was dark, but I heard the ocean. It was like sleeping in the master bedroom in
our St. Augustine D-222 condo.
I got to sleep around 4:30 am. Woke up at 10. I had a really
good sleep. I really feel like I'm into this trip, finally. I have a nice
balcony room over looking the beach and I can see the ocean.
Very rough sea. Lots of wind.
This is my hotel room and my view from my balcony.
This is the view from my balcony.
It's HOT here. I would guess 83 degrees. We had a "summer shower". Already. Very short span of heavy rain. Made things more humid. Is that possible? Feels like 100 percent already.
It's 11:10 am and I need to take care of my room bill. I packed up my stuff and went down to the lobby. The room cost was Rs 4574 (USD $45.76) and I gave her money for the taxi.
The itinerary said we were supposed to check-in at 1200 (noon) at the joining point Sunset Hotel. I met Jessica in the lobby. No one else was there yet.
She did the free cultural tour from the Singapore airport. She said the guide was not very good. It would have been nice, but I was too tired to appreciate anything.
I'm still tired now, but I guess the 5 hours of sleep this morning will keep me going.
12:25. A tour bus just arrived at hotel and now our meeting is set for 2 pm. Everyone is wearing a beautiful flower necklace. I met the tour leader.
He impressed me right away by giving me an orchid lei. Now that's a first. Looks like a nice group. Bonafide travelers. Big duffel bags "ruck sak" Most people seemed English.
Just arriving from the airport I know how tired they are.
I found the restaurant and ordered coffee and cheese sandwich. A caffeine fix will help
my energy level.
Restaurant Sunset Beach is outside. It reminds me of the Caribbean but the ocean is just like St. Augustine. Dark water. White caps on the waves. Sand is dark tan color here.
The people that work here seem really glad to see us (tourists). People are very friendly here.
And my first reaction is something I have already changed. I would think "What do they want from me?" , but they really just want to talk.
Twice now someone has asked if was German. I'm the only one in this restaurant. Each worker has come up to talk to me. They want nothing more than to say hello and maybe practice English.
Even though I live in Atlanta, it seems easier to tell people that I am from Florida. Since they have probably heard of Florida and I did go to college there and Mom and Dad spend the winter there.
I need to say "Winds" instead of hurricane.
Guy in restaurant: Suneth Lalntha Fernando No: 1/A Aluthkuruwa, Negombo, Sri Lanka. T. P 031-2234488
I met Sunita and Dave by the pool. And Ed. I also met a nice lady from Sweden. She has been here 7 times. She said to bargain on purchases. If it says 400, offer 200, then pay 300.
She said the weather is very bad (today). She has never seen it like this here before. It is very windy, maybe 78.
Guy in restaurant said Christmas is not such a good time since it is bringing back memories of tsunami. It did not hit here.
I would not want to be at the Hilton right now. Held captive in a plush high rise where you can't experience the surroundings (OK, maybe that would be nice at the end of the trip)
So what if there was dead bug on the floor. At least it was dead.
So the towels are not fluffy. At least there is a towel and soap and hot water. Sitting here on the beach, feel the wind see the waves, person is windsurfing. People from Sweden swimming.
Sunita and Dave went to get something to eat. This is a vacation. I'm there now. Which means I am totally here. My mind, my person, my desire to know, see, feel, and taste and experience this country.
2 pm meeting
Lucien De Silva is our tour leader.
There are 16 people on this tour. I met Clare and Richard.
Bring socks to Mihintale. You climb on rocks and steps in bare feet. Cover your knees.
No photo restrictions. No side or back photos of Buddha. Only front face.
There are lots of animals near all the temples. Don't touch them. Rabies is prevalent
10 Rs is the biggest coin.
They used to have copper coins. But they make nails from them and sell the nails for more than the coin was worth.
There is a monsoon in Bay of Bengal now so we are having bad weather now. Rs 1500 departure tax. Banks are open 24 hours a day at the airport.
Sometimes they ask to see a receipt that you changed money before you change it back to foreign currency.
ATM is money from the wall. Most all places accept your local (foreign) currency.
Our WAD (Words of the day) We'll get a new one every day.
Areyoubowan - greeting
Shtutee - thank you
In 1505 the Portuguese arrive. There are a lot of Catholics here in Negombo.
Population 18.7 million. 14% Hindi, 69 Buddhist, 7 % catholic, 7% Muslim
I should try a Sri Lankan Arrack Cocktail some time on this trip. Not yet.
Dinner is at 6:30.
I ended up staying in the same room at Sunset Beach. Pauline was my roommate.
7 am wake up knock on the door
7:30 breakfast and luggage out.
Get on the bus. There are 16 people on the tour and
26 seats on the bus. We will change seats everyday.
Here is Lucien on the bus:
8:15 departure to see busy fishing village.
Schedule Today (Lucien was very good about giving a schedule at the end of day so we knew what we were doing the next day, and at the beginning of the day):
Fish market, Tile factory, toddy tappers, Hindu temple, driving today.
8:30 am and we are at the beach.
Water came up over 2 feet here on this beach.
The fisherman go 3-4 miles out to sea to fish. Fish are in salt water a day, dry in sun 2-3 days, sell dried fish in town.
Mats on the beach for drying the fish.
Mats filled with fish. Fish dry in the sun 2-3 days. They
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Day 1. Sunday Dec 18. Join tour Colombo/ Negombo
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Day 2. Monday Dec 19 Tile Factory, Coconut Shell Processing, Toddy Tapping, Hindu Temple
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Fishing Village and Tour Negombo
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The dried fish is taken inland to sell.
Inland people are cultivators, on shore, people are fisherman.
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There is fresh fish market here.
The colorful fish that she is selling is a Parrot fish
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The cost for a big Barracuda is 1200 Rs ($12 USD). You buy the whole fish, cut it up and sell it in pieces so get 1500 Rs. ($15 USD)
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Walking through fresh fish market, crowded, and there we were trying not to kick sand onto the fish spread on the covers on the ground. Obvious tour group, but they really didn't seem to mind us.
Lucien would stop at many stalls to ask type of fish. At vegetable stand he explained in great detail many of the items for sale. He stops at every plant, tree, or flower to tell us about it. The name and the scientific name.
Cutting tuna and shark to sell.
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Selling fruit and vegetables
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Wing bean = about 10 inches long, 4 "wings". The government encourages more people to eat beans.
Jac Fruit
Jac fruit growing on a tree
One Jac fruit can weigh up to 44 pounds (20 kilos).
One tree can feed the whole village. Jac fruit tree is a protected tree. It is illegal to kill it.
My picture Jac fruit tree in the Botanical Gardens. This tree is 60 years old.
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Big green, with bumpy skin.
In a curry dish, the Jac fruit tastes like meat. Fry the seeds and they taste like peanuts.
A ripe Jac fruit is a very sweet dessert.
Preparing Jac fruit to sell.
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Open it with a big knife. The seeds inside with slimy white mush and white meat of the fruit inside are put in bags to sell.
The little banana is a sour plantain.
Lucian really knows a lot about fish and fruit!
They can't export fresh fruit from Sri Lanka because Europe is too far.
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They must import milk, cheese and butter from Australia. They do not eat much meat "That's why the people are very small"
The traditional wooden boat with a stabilizer
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The wood boats are being replaced by new fiberglass boats.
Fiberglass boats are now replacing the wooden boats.
Cost is 150, 000 Rs ($1500 USD) for a fiberglass boat. You can get a loan from bank, or give a portion of fish to pay for the boat.
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Fiberglass boats
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Wood boats
We walked over to the Negombo Lagoon to see these
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Do not stand in front of a shrine so your back is to the shrine to get your picture taken. Only take a picture of the shrine or someone looking at it.
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Across from the fishing village he took us to an old English fort. The fort is now used as a prison. 24,000 prisoners. 67 are on death row. They just started the death penalty. The new president is giving more power to the courts so they can control criminals better.
Dutch built canal is 80 miles long. They are cleaning it now to more use out of it.
We drove through the town of Negombo. Sunday and most shops are open for Christmas shopping.
Negombo was originally a small fishing village, but it is now a popular beach resort with miles of golden sands.
Government stopped the boats from going yesterday because it was too dangerous.
Selling lottery tickets
10Rs for a lottery ticket. The winner is 10 million, but "nobody ever wins".
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Saw this sign: WWOOF - Worldwide Organization of Organized Farmers. Overseas Living.
We are going to visit the Kotaluwana Tile Factory where they make roof tiles.
Dig out the clay. Add water to the clay.
Put in presses, shape the shingle, wet it with water (or kerosene?)
Put it on the mold, press the design.
Dry for 6 days, then load 14,000 tiles to kiln and seal it. They burn cashew nut tree roots in the kiln.
Burn tiles for 7 days.
The cost for one roof tile is Rs 12.
A 3 BR house needs about 3000 -4000 tiles. That's Rs 42,000 (USD $420) for a roof.
Dig out the clay.
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Add water to the clay.
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Put the roof shingle into presses to shape the shingle, wet it with water (or kerosene?)
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Put it on the mold, press the design.
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Dry for 6 days, then load 14,000 tiles to kiln and burn it for 7 day to seal seal it.
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Burn tiles for 7 days. Cost is Rs 12 per tile.
Worker Benefits
With the new labor law they only work 8 hours a day. The workers are paid 600Rs ($6 USD) a day for 8 hours work.
One family owns this factory. They supply a small house for free to the workers so the workers stay close.
Only government workers get a pension.
Private company must send 15 % of the employee wages to an account a bank. The employee must save 10% of their wages. At 55 they get all the money at once. The get 3-4 % interest. Loans are about 12%.
Some worker's children
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We're in Hiennapuwa - a crowded busy town. Paved streets. You see an occasional cow in front of a business. Only an occasional honk.
It takes 1.5 yrs to get bananas from a tree. It yields 150 fruits a year. Ripe leaves are used for packing.
Were going to visit a coconut (shell) processing factory. Not sure if factory of the correct word. That's what Lucien called it.
Coconut trees grow to be 2000 feet tall?!? Geez, that is tall!. Maybe I meant to write 200 foot tall. It's too cold to grow any higher.
A typical family eats at least one coconut a day.
Every part of the tree is used.
The root inside the tree and outside roots are used for firewood.
The bark of the trunk is used to make roof rafters.
The coconut shell is used to make bowls, spoon, fork, drinking glasses.
The fiber from the husk is used to make ropes, carpet and brooms.
A 5 year old tree bears fruit. Toddy tapping to get juice for vinegar. They send the juice to the government and the government makes liquor.
Coconut shells ready to be processed.
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Sharp nails removes the husk.
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It is shredded into fibers.
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A rope pulley turns the wheels.
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The shredded shell fibers are used to make rope. Rope thickness is controlled by pressure that he sqeezes.
An electric machine turns what he was holding. It took about one minute to do 20 feet of rope.
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There are labor laws but they are not very strict. They learned that the government can't run business. In 1971 the government nationalized all the factories. For 20 years they ran at a loss, so now the are privatizing the companies that are doing foreign exchange. This family exports to Japan. The government gives incentives to import and export.
We saw them making rope. Thickness is controlled by the pressure that he squeezes. An electric machine turned what he was holding. It took about one minute to do 20 feet of rope.
Sri Lanka is the largest supplier to the world market for tea.
Sri Lanka is about 80% middle class, 10% poor class. So that leaves 10% upper class, but I don't Lucien mentioned that number.
76% of the employed people are male. The president is a woman.
Before coconut tapping stop for tea. We had to use a hole-in-the-floor toilet.
Next visit is to a see Toddy Tapping.
Toddy Tapping is collecting the sap from the flowers at the top of tree. The sap is used to make Arrack, a local whisky type spirit.
They climb tall coconut trees and collect the sap from the flowers
There are 35 acres of palm trees. One person can own a maximum of 50 acres. There are 18 tappers in this garden. They tap twice a day.
They collect the sap from the flowers.
They are paid by the gram they collect. They pick coconut "1 in 3 months" (?). The get about 20 coconuts per tree. You need a permit from the state to tap.
They have a 3 gallon jug that they fill with juice which is about 3% alcohol. They have to send the juice to a government distillery to make 34% Arrack alcohol, a local whiskey type spirit.
The juice smelled like dirty socks. Everyone was offered a taste.
They go from tree to tree on the top on a small rope. The ropes last about a year before they need to be replaced.
They step up the tree on coconut shells tied to the side of the trunk.
There are 1500 different types of palm trees. 800 types are here in Sri Lanka.
You must be 18 to work here. One tapper is 64 years old.
Climbing the coconut tree
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Here is the step he is using to climb tree. Coconut shells ties to the side of the trunk.
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They go from tree to tree
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They have a 3 gallon jug that they fill with juice which is about 3% alcohol. They have to send the juice to a government distillery to make 34% Arrack alcohol, a local whiskey type spirit.
The juice smelled like dirty socks. Everyone was offered a taste.
He opened a fresh coconut then let us taste that also.
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Watching the coconut being opened
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We stopped at a roadside to buy king coconuts. 15 cents each.
We stopped at a very ornate Hindu Temple "Kovil".
Peacocks, colorful rooftop of Gods and deities.
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There is absolutely no way I would do a tour of this country on my own. You really need a guide to get around to see unique stuff. Lucien is really showing us as much as possible to introduce us to his country. He is very good at his job and I can tell he likes it. After each demonstration he gives someone in the group 200 Rs to give to the person that did the demonstration.
2:00pm. Picnic on the bus. All of the places where they normally stop for a picnic are under water. 2 Rotties (stuffed flour tortilla-like triangle shaped), mango, pineapple, banana, and biscuits (cookies).
3:15 and 77 km to Anuradhapura. We were following the coast then we turned right and now the roads are awful bumpy. At Puttalam or Putlam (Muslim town) town we turned right.
Sign on road said 68 km to Anuradhapura Yeow. I honestly can't recall a paved road bumpier than this.
Stopped at a house on the way. 10th grade kid and 1 year old girl. School is 5 km away. They take a school bus.
The Senior school is farther away. The boy's name is Nalin. The girl is Uditha Niroshani. She is a volleyball champion. Their address
KK Uditha Niroshani 13 Mill Post Buddhi daungama Anuradhapura Road Sri Lanka
They showed us the tool they use to scrape a coconut out of it's shell.
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Mounted outside on the side of the house: Shaving razors and toothbrush.
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A cow-drawn carriage went by.
About building houses:
It usually takes 10-12 years to collect all the material that it takes to build a house. Finally you can get the cement and build it. They have 2 acres here.
Pay Rs 6000 for about 10x10feet of sand. It is illegal to take any sand from the land. We saw a truck backed into a lot to load (or unload?) sand.
We're at km 32 on A12. We need to go 77 so about 20 more miles.
5:45 and we are close. The A12 is so bumpy.
We stopped for a toilet break in the bush. Talk about getting friendly with your fellow travelers. You can't be shy on tours like this.
Sign: Institute of Post Harvest Technology.
5:50 75 km. 2 to go.
5:55 arrive at hotel.
Nuwarawewa Rest House in New Town, Anuradhapura
Tele: 025-2222565 Managed by Quickshaws Ltd, 3, Kalinga Place, Colombo 5, Tele: 583133-5.
http://www.hoteltravel.com/sri_lanka/anuradhapura/nuwarawewa.htm
http://www.srilanka.com/booking/traveldetail/TL00061
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Dinner was Rs 600 (USD $6) buffet. I got a little of every thing. I even liked the spiciest dish. Pork I think. Large bottle of beer was Rs 175 Rs (USD $1.75). Takes the edge off a long hot day.
We have 5 single ladies, so someone gets a single room each night. Lucien offered me the single room tonight (we're in the same room for 2 nights.) I declined, and offered it to Pauline (since she didn't seem to sleep much last night). I came up with a better plan to ask for the single room and the end of the trip at the beach (where we stay 3 nights).
So Monday night, first of two nights in this room. Aileen is my roommate. Very warm room, fan helps a little.
Laying here under a drape of "mosi" netting. It's like I'm under a big wedding dress that flows all around me. It billows from air pushed around from the fan with one speed: fast and off.
Lucien said that we really do not have to worry about malaria mosi's anywhere that we are going. That's a comfort since I did not get around to getting malaria medication. In hindsight, I wish I had taken the Malaria pills. I still don't like bites though.
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7 am wake up knock on the door (our morning "knock-up") , 7:30 breakfast and luggage out. 8:15, no 8:20 departure.
Strong coffee this morning. It's very hot and humid already.
Schedule: Anuradhapura Bodi tree first. After tree, see important symbols and stupas.
The beer last night took the edge off a long hot day. It's going to be longer and hotter today I think.
The "Cultural Triangle" covers three ancient cities. Today we go to the first one. We're headed to see the World Heritage Site of the Sacred City of Anuradhapura. Entrance cost is 100 Rs
This was the first capital of Sri Lanka. http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/anuradhapura.html
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500 BC Anuradhapura established as the country's first capital.
380 BC Anuradhapura was the royal capital of the Singhalese kings to 993 AD.
260-210 BC It was the center of the conversion of the Ruler and his people to Buddhism.
The center from which the influence of Theravada Buddihism spread far and wide.
The site was vast and the ancient city spread over many miles. There were hospitals for the sick, hostels for travelers, and artificial reservoirs ensured a good water supply.
This capital of Ceylon flourished for 1,300 years. It remained residence and royal capital for 119 successive Singhalese kings.
993 AD There was an invasion and the city was abandoned in 1000 AD and the capital moved to Polonnaruwa, said to be a safer place.
The impressive remains of this site were discovered in the early 19th century. The entire area was hidden away in thick jungle for a long time. The palaces, monasteries and monuments are since then in restoration and accessible once again.
Lucien said that in 1956 Anuradhapura this area was flooded 20 feet under water. Population is 99,000.
The first stop today was the Mahavihara monastery. It is founded around The Sacred Bo Tree (Sri Maha Bodhi)
Prayer flags
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The monastery
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Beautiful stone carving at the bottom of the monastery steps
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We went up the stairs on the other side of the tree. Locals are giving offerings of flowers and food.
At the top of the steps before you enter the monastery
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I stood to the side while others prayed (or pretended to pray). After you pray the monk wraps holy thread around your right wrist.
I was writing and continued to write (this). A a monk kept calling me over and motioning with his white thread. I finally closed my writing pad and approached him.
He pulled on my right arm and started wrapping the thread around my wrist. Once, twice, three, four, five, six, seven double threads.
OK, that's enough. Knot it and step outa there. Lucien said to keep it on for three days or until it breaks.
I kept that thread on my wrist two weeks after I got home until Jan 23. It reminded me to pray for the people who had not heard the Good News to come to know Jesus.
You must make an offering (pay) to enter the monastery. The sign said the wall around the site was built for 25 million Rs.
The "bricks are half the height that it should be" You can buy a "face stone" for 2500 Rs to protect this World Heritage Site.
We have to take our shoes off (ugh) and they searched our bags because in 1998 there was bomb at a temple in Kandy. They rebuilt that temple.
The Sacred Bo Tree (Sri Maha Bodhi)
More than 2,200 years old.
The tree was planted from a cutton of the Buddha's "tree of enlightenment".
I saw a 1400 year old Bayobab Tree in Zimbabwe, so this tree is older than that one. In fact, my Rough Guide says it is "now officially the world's oldest tree", but that is not true. Earth's oldest living tree 4,767 years old. It is a Bristlecone Pine located central California, USA.
Anyway, this Bo tree was grown from a sapling of the very (fig?) tree in India under which more than 2500 years ago the Buddha found enlightenment.
It was brought here in the 3rd century BC by Sanghamitta, the founder of an order of Buddhist nuns.
The tree is in an elaborate enclosure that is three levels high. We can go up to the 2nd platform of the tree. Not the 3rd though. The third level in my picture is where the yellow umbrella is opened.
There is another tree growing near it. The oldest tree is the one with where we saw the trailing branch propped up by green iron supports.
The Smithsonian institute came and could not figure out why this tree grows so slowly.
Walk around the tree to approach it from the other side
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Notice the supports on the branches
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I just saw a girl give a monk something and she knelt at his feet. When I gave that girl a pen yesterday she knelt at my feet. Such a kind gesture in thanks.
Geez my feet really hurt. Lucian is telling us a lot of Buddhist beliefs and how to get enlightenment. Lord Buddha philosophy.
I can't help thinking about wanting to do those Mihintale 1800 steps now, when it is (relatively) cool. But we are doing the steps after lunch (which is at a rest house).
Lucien: "6 months, no food under the tree" Etc etc "When Lord Buddha gained enlightenment etc etc. " After 3500 another Buddha will come along."
More information "Buddha is the master, he shows the path. It is your choice to follow it. You decide." Ok, that goes along with Christian beliefs.
God may have a pre-determined path, but ultimately you decide and bear the consequences (and ask for forgiveness) if it is wrong path.
Lots of people were around contemplating the tree and praying.
We saw a sapling cutting from the sacred Bodi tree. Sapling was presented April 20, 1997 planted by the president
There were many monks here visiting from Bangladesh. We took a group photo with the monks.
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About monks:
To get good merits they give good food to the monks. Locals must give once a month to feed the local monks. Lucian is expected to feed 10 monks lunch once a month.
Monks can vote and run for office. There are 225 in parliament. 6 of them are monks. Monks cannot drive. In SR try to keep religion out of politics so people request monks not wear robes in parliament.
Lucien said Buddhist nuns wear long sleeve shirt. Monks do not wear a shirt here.
There are 40,000 Buddhist monks on the island. There are three orders of monks in Sri Lanka.
It is every difficult to enter the order, and easy to leave. But they made a vow that if you leave the monkhood, your certificate is not recognized.
When a monks dies, they are cremated and their remains put in a small stupa.
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Lucian was very nice to share his political views with me. I was open about my opinions and I told him that I don't care for our current leadership in USA and the mess in Iraq. Anyway, I hope Lucien doesn't mind what I write here.
In his opinion, monks should not be in parliament. I think he said 6 monks are in elected positions.
Now that brings the interest of the church to the state He felt they should have monk hood (is that a word?) If they run for office.
Monks have a recognized role for thousands of year, so monks being in a position to affect their own interested is a new concept.
My feet are doing a little better on these swept rocks and "clean" dirt. The little pebbles pressing into my soft feet hurt, so I really do appreciate the people that sweep the dirt for us.
Very crude records kept in the "Materials for Sri Maha Bohdi" book laying on this table.
We exit tree enclosure, put our shoes on (yeah) and we walked to the Brazen Palace ("Loha Pasada").
This palace was a nine-story structure with a thousand rooms for monks. It was made of wood and it burned down 15 years after it's construction.
It was repeatedly rebuilt, the last time in 1153-1186.
Now there is a small building in a "forest of plain, closely spaced columns - some 1600 in total each about 4m high." These columns would have supported the first floor.
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Next we went to see a shrine with five Buddha statues.
My picture angle is from left side - metal Buddha first, big Buddha behind the glass and the marble one is on the end.
Behind the glass is a marble Buddha from Burma.
He has circles on his soul: His footprint is circles. We have lines on the souls of our feet.
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There is a also a Buddha made of metal from Thailand.
Another plaster and concrete Buddha wearing a tiara and holding a lotus. This Smadhi (means "meditation") Buddha (a 4th century AD masterpiece) is the future Buddha "Maitreya".
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The other Buddha's represent previous Buddha's ("No one knows what Buddha looks like.")
All of them have their eyes open but they are looking down. All right hands are touching ground blessing the world with unbounded compassion.
Around the entrance/exit they are constructing scaffolding. There is a lot of building going on here for us tourists. Wow.
I put on my shoes and it feels like my feet had a massage. The soft cushion feels great.
We walked a short distance North of the Palace to see the huge white Ruvanvalisaya Dagoba ("The Maha Thupa" or "The Great Stupa"). Massive dome shaped shrine. The third largest in the city. Another source said tallest dagoba in Sri Lanka, and I think Lucien said 3rd biggest in the world.
This stupa is fully restored, painted and gleaming white. "White washed with lye." It enshrines various remains of Dutugemunu.
It is 300 feet (90m) high. It is the tallest dagoba in Sri Lanka.
This stupa is over 2000 years old, Built in 161 BC
Stupas are sealed but a relic stone from another stupa is on display here.
All stupas are on a platform. This platform is 475x477 feet.
There are 344 (or 44?) nine-foot tall elephants surrounding the platform, holding it up. There are four smaller stupas on the platform. 940 feet circumference.
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Here are the visiting Bangladesh monks at the stupa
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Pilgrims worship the stupa first, then the Bo tree, then they worship the statues.
10:30 am now. We are walking around the stupa relic stone, around the entire platform. So far my bare feet are doing fine here. The stones are cool November to January. After that the stone is impossibly hot to walk on. They have to set up planks for the foreigners tender feet.
Just a thought but it seems like we would have a much nicer experience and memory of this place if we could wear shoes. Oh well, when in Rome (do as the Romans)
Here is Lucien, our very knowledgable tour guide for this trip.
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This stupa is done in the shape of half a Bodi leaf (Lucien held a up a folded leaf to show us). There are 8 different stupa shapes.
Sign at the entrance Ruvanveli Mahaseya. Another sign: Ruwanweli Maha Seya.
Another sign at the entrance said "footwear here". Bummer, loose the shoes again. Cost is 100 Rs for foreigners. Free for locals.
Bus north a bit up to Mahasen's Palace (the Queen's Pavilion). Famous for the carved granite Moonstone. The "finest one in Sri Lanka". And carved. The half rings depict flames, animals, creeper, goose, scroll and the center of a lotus.
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Up the finely carved steps which are supported by the "inevitable dwarfs, squatting like tiny Sumo wrestlers."
The Ratna Prasada, the "Gem Palace", built in the 8th century. It has a guard stone showing "the usual nagaraja standing on a dwarf and shaded by a seven-headed cobra". The nagaraja is carrying symbols of prosperity: lotus flowers, urn. This guard stone reminds me of the hundreds of similar goddess carvings in Angor Wat. I think those were dancing ladies.
The site around the moonstone is sparse. Only one other group of tourists. Some insistent vendors here are starting to bother me.
Lucien has a 25 year old daughter. Before Lucien was married? he bought a sovereign that he bought for his wife for Rs 120? Value has increased 13,000 Rs
Next, we went to see the unrestored Abhayagiri dagoba, built 114-136 BC (first century).
It once stood at 370 feet (115m), but now the pinnacle is lost so it is 230 feet (70m).
Built over a footprint of Buddha who stood with one foot here and the other on Adam's Peak.
It was the centerpiece of a monastery complex that had 5000 monks.
It was lost to the jungle. It is mostly covered in galvanized pipe scaffolding and green growth - the earth and vegetation - a great fuzzy mound.
At the entrance are two guardian statues of Pasmanidhi and Samkanidhi, two "fat and dwarfish attendants of Kubera, the god of wealth; enclosed in concrete sheds where pilgrims tie prayer ribbons.
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800 feet (250m) east of that dagoba is the Samadhi Buddha in meditation posture.
Carved from limestone in 4th century AD, the oldest on the island.
This was once a group of four statues. There is a concrete cover to protect this statue.
If you stand on the right side, the Buddha profile looks sad, stand on the other side and the profile of Buddha looks like he is happy smiling. All in the same face. He is sad because he is still in this world and he is sorry for others.
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There is a big cannonball tree here. Buddha was born and died under a cannonball tree. Fruit from this tree is not good. Monkeys won't even eat them.
Sign: No photograph with back toward the statue"
Next we walked to the Kuttam Pokuna (the Twin Ponds). Built in 8th century for monks ritual abolutions. There have stepped sides leading down into the baths. There is an ancient filtration system so water with no sediment, only pure water went into the pools. The channel is about 12 inches high where sediment falls, pure water flows over the top edge into the pool. The water in these pools is 3-4 feet deep now, and it's fetid green. Unpaid compulsory labor built these ponds. The laborers only got rice for lunch. They like to it to get good merits. They built this in addition to doing their own work.
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Back to our minibus. It's slow going now on the narrow bumpy roads to get around this area.
Drive to Jetavana dagoba.
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Biggest stupa in the world.
My book says "this massive edifice tend to attract a string of statistical superlatives"
Original form stood at 394 feet (120 m) It was the 3rd highest building in the world at that time (surpassed only by two of Egypts pyramid's)
Now it is 250 feet (70m) high.
All red brick. It is the worlds biggest stupa and is still the tallest and largest structure made entirely of brick anywhere on earth.
It contains over 90 million bricks and holds 20 million square feet of dirt. FYI, pyramids in Eqypt are 480 feet (146m) tall.
UNESCO restoration started in 1981 and it will take about 10 years to finish. There is lots of rubble laying around. They need more bricks to finish the shape, then plaster, then paint. All stupas are white. Extensive remains around here of the Jetavana Monastery. It once housed 3000 monks.
12:50 now and we are driving South toward Thumparama. Baswallulama Man made tank/lake is on our right. We're going to "see a ceremonial temple" then we'll have lunch. There are public toilets in the area. There was one western style stall. We passed Sri Satan ?Po? Singunia Temple. 3rd Century BC.
Beside the Pond of Isurumuniya is the Isurumuni, old rock temple. The "Sacred Isurumuni Raja Maha Viharaya". It's not on the Cultural Triangle ticket. It Rs 100. Printed on the ticket "This money will be utilized for the development work for the temple"
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I'm glad we went a little out of our way (a quarter of a mile) to see this.
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The entrance has eroded guard stones and moonstone.
Right of entrance is a pool with elephant carving so it looks like they are bathing in the water.
Go up the steps up to main shrine.
On the right side of the shrine door is a carving showing a man (sitting, legs crossed in front of him) with a horse looking over his shoulder.
This carving is the design on all the plates in the hotel where we are staying! Inside, there is cave/room carved directly into the rock. Wooden beams on top of stone pillars. There is a gold meditating Buddha sitting there.
Left of that is another "modern shrine with an ugly reclining Buddha" from Rough Guide. It was a dying Buddha because the toes were not even.
Bright colors lots of intricate designs all over the little room. It was not behind glass and Lucien had a permit so we could take picture.
Cave carved into the rock with dying Buddha (toes are not even)
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From looking at my picture of the five other sitting Buddha's in the room, they do have a unique look about them. I think it's the eyebrows - makes them looks a little Chinese.
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Next we visited the Isurumuniya Museum.
Saw the famous 5th century Isurumuni Lovers sculpture known as The Lovers. It's a stone carving about 4 feet high by 3 wide. Done in the 5th century. They represent a bodhisattva and his consort, or a pair of Hindu deities, or Price Saliya and the low-caste he fell in love with and married, thereby giving up the right to the throne. Also saw "Kings Family" "Dwarfs" "Deities" , "Man and Horse" 6th century Iserumuni Temple.
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1:30 on the bus to the Tissawewa Guest House for lunch. Nice bathrooms here. Rearrange furniture on the porch, order ginger beer (non-alcoholic) and soda with lime, order lunch and wait. Lucien took a bus load into town to go to the bank and post office.
A map at guest house had these sites on it:
Northern Dagaba, Twin Ponds, Samadhi Statue, Silasobhakandaka Dagaba, Citadel (book called this "one of city's least interesting areas"), Thuparama Dagaba, Jetavaharamaya, Ruvanvaliseya, Brazen Palace, Boddi Tree, Mirisavati Dagaba, Dakkhina Meghagiri, Isuruyuniya. Bold indicates we visited there. Some places must have changed names because I can't any mention of the one in italics in my book.
It's 2:50 and we are finally getting our food. For lunch there was a whole table of "rice and curry" people who got their food first. I'm not quite ready to eat that all the time. I wanted something more traditional so I had vegetable pie and greek salad (no olives, no feta cheese). Gloria was last to get her meal. Deviled beef- she won the HOT prize. Half the plate was chilies. I had a taste and it was indeed hot.
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3:40 drop off Gloria's Steve off at the hotel so he can rest his swollen feet (that was a very good decision.
Travel tip: It doesn't matter if you miss something (significant) on a tour/trip. If you don't feel well, you will have bad memories so it's better to relax and rest and recover instead of pushing to see and do everything.)
Now we are our way to Mihintale 12 km east. We passed Rajarata University of Sri Lanka. We also passed the stupa where Buddha's hair is kept. He had a single hair between his eyes on his forehead. Stupa is 3-4 feet high.
Mihintale is place where Buddhism was introduced in Sri Lanka in 247 BC. Mihintale which means "Mind is a mountain" or "Mindless Mountain".
The monk Arahath (or Thero?) Mahinda (son of Ashoka the great Buddhist emperor of India) stayed in these mountain caves and converted the local people to Buddhism. It is Mahinda's sister, Theri Sangamitta, who carried an off shoot of the holy Bo tree that gave shelter to Buddha to attain Nibbana. Sri Maha Bodhi "The Bo tree" was planted at Anuradhapura, where it still grows as the oldest tree with a recorded history in the world.
The story is that the Sinhalese king Tissa (or Thissa?) was hunting and found himself confronted by Mahinda who proposed this "Riddle of the Mangoes" to test the king's intelligence:
"What name does this tree bear, O king?"
"This tree is called a mango."
"Is there yet another mango besides this?"
"There are many mango-trees."
"And are there yet other trees besides this mango and the other mangoes?"
"There are many trees, sir; but those are trees that are not mangoes."
"And are there besides the other mangoes and those tree which are not mangoes, yet other trees?"
"There is this mango-tree, sir. "
So the king passed the riddle test and Mahinda "proceeded to expound the Buddha's teaching." Lucien told us about this riddle on the bus when we were going to the site. He actually recited the entire riddle of the mangoes to us over the microphone. Impressive.
The Steps
To see all the sights here on Missaka mountain, you have to climb 1,840 shallow stone steps. Shoes are OK for the first set of steps up to the Upper Terrace, then you do the rest BAREFOOT! Or in my case, in socks, appropriately named "my temple socks". There are many sets of steps: 220+184+200+300+ + 180. 1840 steps in all and I think we did them ALL of them!
Seems like it was 1000 steps up to the Upper Terrace. Now we have to remove hats and shoes before entering the "Maluwa". Head up to the big Mahaseya dagoba.
There a nice boy "Jagath" who got me to start talking to him on the way up the first set of steps. I was actually glad he was there a couple times on this higher set of steps. The steps are not as defined, tricky to find a good footing for every step. And I'm in socks. Finally get to the top where the stupa is located. Jagath pulled me over to the right to point out a good place to take a picture of the excellent view. It was a very clear day so you could see very far, all the way to Anuradhapura. There is a clear view to the BIG bright white seated Buddha.
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Dagoba with reclining Buddha
This dagoba is supposed to enshrine some ashes and a single hair of the Buddha. You can walk all the way around the platform for a 360 degree view. We entered a building on the platform. The entrance has a "devilish face" at the top center. Elephant on left, and a chicken (no, I'm told it's an eagle) on the right. He recited something he thinks we should all know: dragon, lion et c etc.
Inside there was four praying Buddha's to the left and four to the right leading to another 30? Foot long reclining Buddha. This reclining Buddha is dying because his toes are angled (not straight) He has a big toe and small little toe. He knees are out, and his chest is in. (Sleeping Buddha toes are even and chest is out.)
My picture shows the whole length of the reclining Buddha. A cannon ball tree is at his feet and a sad monk is holding onto a branch of the tree. After walking around the stupa, we walked back down the same steps back to the Upper Terrace.
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Then a very small group of us started up to Aradhana Gala (or Meditation Rock).
It's an absolutely insane, very scary walk up difficult stone steps IN YOUR BARE FEET! You have to go up very irregular steps cut into the rock. They are very steep and very precarious on the edge of the rock with a big drop-off straight down in some places. They lead up to the outcropping of rocks where you stand on top of a huge rock to see a great view. This is where Mahinda preached his first sermon. Ok, so there is a good view. It's not worth risking injury. It was scarier going down. I was sure glad Jagath was there to help me with that scary little adventure.
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A view from the top
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Here is where we are going next
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Next steps were easier, but you're still in BARE FEET!
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A short flight of steps up to a large bright white seated Buddha. Made of concrete and brick in the 1980's (1985?) so it's 25 (20?) years old. Lucien mentioned that there is supposed to be a ceremony some time (soon?) to paint the eyes of this Buddha.
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We did not do the "rough woodland path" down to the cave of Elder Mahinda. That was fine with me.
Going up to these shrines in barefoot is very uncomfortable on tender feet. My padded footy socks (from the airplane) were perfect. There is no way I could have made it through the escapades this afternoon without them.
We got our shoes (yeah! Comfort!)
I took a picture of Jagath.
The Ambasthala dagoba , the "Mango Tree Dagoba" is behind him.
He really was considerate in his quest to help me in return for a tip. When Lucien was talking, he would immediately stop conversation with me and point to Lucien. He also did not stick to my side and he was there when I really needed help up those stone steps.
When we were on top he pointed to the place where he lives. I gave him 100 Rs and told him that he didn't need to go back down the steps with me. I wanted a little solitude to reflect on the accomplishment that we just completed. I need to mail the picture to him.
Jagath Kulathilaka No 20/4, Missaka Mawatha Mihinthale, Sri Lanka
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We took the same steps back down from the Upper Terrace to the Medamaluwa monastery ruins about half way back down. We saw the Bhojana Salawa (the Alms House). There were two huge rock troughs, like "boats" where boiled rice for over 2000 monks was kept for feeding time every day. Rice "boat" was about 20 feet long. They put banana leaves down first, then the rice. There are two large stone tablets in Sinhala to define the rules for the monks and staff. These stelae were erected by Mahinda in 10th century.
6 pm now. Yuk, I just got my first mosi bite. I hope he's not carrying malaria. Lucien told us that every place where we are going there are no malaria mosquitoes. There are mosquitoes , but no malaria. Comforting, but I still wish I had taken the pills. In hindsight, I would take the pills and join the morning pill-taking ritual with every one else on this trip who was smart enough to get the malaria pills. Anyway
A little further down is Sinha Pokuna (the Lion Pool).
Water comes from the hill above to a holding basin above the lion sculpted out of the rock, the water comes out of the lions mouth and over the monk's body for washing.
Lucian stood there for awhile so we could take pictures. He demonstrated how the monks would face the rock and put their hands on the lion's paws.
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The bus was waiting for us at the bottom. We were all tired, very tired from a long day.
Oh yeah some excitement. Clare warned us that she was scared of heights. Well, she did great on the steps at the beginning. Then we got to the Upper Terrace where you have to take off your shoes. On the poorly laid out rough cut steps to the dagoba, she made it about 20 steps up and she just froze. She was very courageous to make it that far! She made it back down and waited for us on the Upper Terrace. This is definitely not a place for people who are afraid of heights. Good for her for getting so far, and a very smart move not to continue. Also a VERY SMART decision for Steve not to do Mihintale. I hope his feet are better tomorrow.
Travel Tip TT: At Mihintale you have to cover your knees, but maybe a skirt is not such a good idea for ladies because of the rock climbing.
They don't build any new stupas any more.
There are 45 monks here (in this area? Or in Mihintale?).
It's 6:15 and we're on the road to some where else, back to the hotel.
Dinner is a 8pm. 600 Rs for the buffet. I ate the curry pineapple and deviled chicken. Yum. Banana fritters for dessert. Very delightful conversation with Robin, Ed, Clive, Maggie, Richard.
I took an ibuprofen so I don't feel those 1840 steps at all.
They have to pay a tax on TV's in England to fund public television. That's why the shows are so good.
Tuesday night in same room as last night with roommate is Aileen. Last night we didn't even see the air conditioning unit in the window. We tried to turn is on tonight, but it didn't work so end ended up not using it after all.
I should be reading about tomorrow but the light is so bad in here.
End of Day 3
7 wake up knock on the door, 7:30 breakfast and luggage out, 8:15 (our auspicious) departure time.
Schedule: 30 miles to Aukana and Dambulla (cover knees), picnic lunch then batik factory, elephant ride 1500Rs for 1 hour, hotel Mihintale
My Rough Guide book was right , there is not easy way to Aukana. We travel towards Giritale, then we turned off the main road to a side road that is awful. And I am sitting the back of the bus. Barf.
9:40 Arrive to see the magnificent Standing Buddha of Aukana.
40 feet tall
Sculptured in the 5th century AD under the reign of King Dathusena. More information at http://www.lankalibrary.com/heritage/temples/aukana.htm
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Permit to Entrance and Take Photographs of "Aukana Raja Maha Viharaya" is 250 Rs.
This place is still relatively isolated in its jungle setting. Everybody had to do the now too familiar SHOES OFF dance. Pile them up together. I'm glad I kept my temple sox in my bag. On October 23, 1981 the Queen and religious leaders visited this statue. They got to wear shoes!
We are the only people visiting here now! No other tourists. Walk a very short distance and you see it. Buddha is 43 feet (13m) high statue carved out of solid granite. Aukana has his hand up blessing the tank he is facing.
In 1971 the stomach cracked. There is a spot exactly between the feet is where water falls from the tip of his nose - a testament to the architectural accuracy of the sculptor. The statue is never touched, it is not cleaned. Large statues like this were destroyed in Afganistan. A halo was added 150 years ago. It is cemented on top of his head. The bottom the robe is damaged when a mold was made of the statue.
There was a brick canopy/enclosure around and above to protect the statue from weather, but they removed it nine years ago because bricks were starting to fall onto the statue. They are now planning to add four pillars and a cover to protect it from the weather. This is an old picture when there was a cover:
I saw an ISO 900 2000 sign on a company. It is indeed a worldwide certification.
Leaving Aukana and now
Lorries (cars) come from Colombo to the vegetable market here in Dambulla. Sign in front of the market said "Economic Center". There is a guaranteed price for rice and fertilizer to encourage more rice farmers.
11 am arrive at the World Heritage Site of the Golden Cave Temples of Dambulla. http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/goldentempledambulla.html
http://www.explorelanka.com/places/nc/dambulla.htm
Dambulla is a part of the Cultural Triangle declared by UNESCO. There are over 80 caves in the surrounding area and some of them have been used by the monks as meditation locations.
The gold Buddha on top of building is the largest seated Buddha image in the World. Depicting the "Dharma Chakra" gesture. Completed in 2001. Dambulla is called the Golden Temple because of its gilded interior of the caves.
These old cave temples date from the 1st century BC. Hindu statues are believed to be of the 12 century AD and the latest paintings are of the late 18-century. The caves were originally used as hiding places. Later on in history they were embellished more and more by several kings. A sacred pilgrimage site for 22 centuries, this cave monastery, with its five sanctuaries, is the largest, best-preserved cave-temple complex in Sri Lanka.
There are five separate caves carved (hewn) from one big rock that is 2000 feet long.
On the inside, every cave contains Buddha images and a few sculptures of Hindu Gods. They are decorated with religious and secular paintings from the 15th and 16th century. There are Buddhist mural paintings covering an area of 2,100 sq. meters.
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The temple is a perfect location to view evolution of the ancient Sri Lankan arts. Dambulla is a unique and important historical site because of the amalgamation of the material from many eras.
We drove up to the gate, where we got out of the bus. Not too many salesmen here, maybe 7 people selling t shirt and postcards at Dambulla.
Walk up 122 six-inch high steps, take shoes off, go see caves, very hot in the caves.
2000 feet on long rock where the caves are carved.
Cave 1 contains a dying reclining Buddha.
In between caves 1 and 2 there is a shrine room for God Vishnu.
Cave 2 is 122 x 75 feet. 22 foot high entrance. There are 157 Buddhist (and also Hindu) statues in this cave. It contains the same Buddha in different poses.
Sleeping Buddha - 50 foot (15m) long reclining Buddha going to sleep. Toes are even.
Teaching Buddha - Posed with thumb and 1st finger touching.
Sad Buddha - "I have escaped from this world but the other are still suffering".
Cave 2 has statue of king that lived here 14 years. He finally got his kingdom back, then he donated the caves.
My pictures of cave 2
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Some postcard pictures:
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Cave 3. Very hot, but not as hot as cave 2.
Between cave 3 and cave 4 there is a window frame carved from coconut wood.
Cave 5 another reclining Buddha. Going to sleep Buddha. There are 5 Buddhas on the right , four on the left. This was a store room.
It poured down rain while we were in cave 2. The rain stopped after cave 4.
Here is picture of the fun people on this tour
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Go to get our shoes back on. Where are Clive's shoes? Oh no! He had to put on somebody' else's shoes. And so another travel trip is born: Swap a shoe with someone else because no one is going to take a mis-matched pair of shoes.
Lunch is at 1. Picnic lunch was great today (Wed). 1 vegetable rotty, 1 fish rotty (although I didn't find any fish in mine). Fruit and biscuits (cookies).
Start with white, cotton material
Apply wax (75 % paraffin and 25% bees wax) on the white so it stays white.
Dip in a chemical first, then dip into the color bath.
Boil to remove the wax. Temp must hotter than 99 degree F to melt the wax.
Apply wax again on places to protect.
Dip in chemical first, then the color bath.
Boil to remove the wax.
Apply wax on places to protect. Dip , boil, apply wax, dip, boil. Repeat 10 times for 10 colors, 40 times for 40 colors, etc.
10 colors - wax on 10 times
40 colors, wax on 40 times
100 colors wax on 100 times
For five colors, blue is the last color. In the end black color or darkest color
After the final boil, wash then iron.
Good batik has both sides the same. Print is only on one side.
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Sari styles
Indian - 8 pleats or more is person is thin, excess around back and over top
Kandy - ready-made long skirt with ruffle around waist to hips.
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We went to Greenwood Elephant Safari (PUT) LTD. Habarana Tel 066-70079 and 027-661628 A "Paradise of Nature Lovers"
1 hour ride is 1500 Rs (USD $15).
I am writing this while I am riding on an elephant right now. It is very bumpy, but it is easier to write on an elephant than on the bus. Too funny. I'm with Gloria, Hanna, Maggie (who is getting a massage from the elephants spine).
Elephants can remember 30 works. They have pour eyesight.
We carried umbrella and we needed them. There was a quick down pour of rain on our hour ride.
The elephant walked off the trail, down the bank into the water! The boy walking with us took our cameras when the elephant went in the water.
We were on the only male. His name was Raja. We went over to the top of a waterfall and he took our pictures.
Hanna wanted to take a picture of Clive on the other elephant so they stopped the elephant and turned ours sideways to a position where she could get a good picture. Raja was young 20 years old.
After seeing the Facebook post (next picture) I wish I had declined this elephant ride...
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Note for future travels: DO NOT ride on an elephant. This from Facebook:
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There are 135,000 soldiers in the army. There are 3 training camps in SR. One is here in Mihintale.
We arrive at the small town of Giritale and check into Giritale Hotel. Cost is 900 Rs or $9 USD. Here is the bill:
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Dinner is at 7:30 so there is time for a drink before dinner
My roommate is Pauline.
There is a stunning view overlooking the lake (they call it a "tank"). Itinerary said it was "possible to take a pleasant evening stroll around the tank, a lake created for irrigation. " But not possible in the dark, so we drank.
We sat on the back porch, swimming pool to the left. Sitting in rocking chairs. Looking out over a beautiful tank (lake).
There was a very interesting menu of drinks. Some people tried the "Nelli juice cocktail"
The only vodka drink was called "Old Ceylon". Cost was Rs 350 (USD $3.50). Recipe is 50% Vodka, 25% Baileys (Irish Creme liquor), Orange Juice, Pineapple Juice, and a Dash of grenadine. It was VERY GOOD. Mmmmm. I think I'll go make one right now!
Our view when we were imbibing:
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7 wake up knock on the door, 7:30 breakfast and luggage out, 8:15 (our auspicious) departure time.
Schedule today: Polonnaruwa then optional jeep safari is 2000 Rs (not 2500). 3 hour ride today.
At breakfast I got up to get something and they took my plate away. I wasn't finished! At every meal every place that we eat, they seem so attentive to removing things that aren't used on the table.
The green juice is Nelli juice. It is small fruit like an olive. You boil it and drink the Nelli juice for good health. People who ordered the cocktail last night did not like it. I had Nelli juice this morning at breakfast. It tasted a little bland and a little sweet.
Waiting on the minibus, we looked at gems displayed in the jewelry store in the lobby of the hotel.
Stars of eye (?), White sapphire, Blue and red sapphires
Alexandrite - greenish and white, changes color when light. 1 carat is 1370 USD
Peridot, garnet, pink garnet, tourmaline, pearls, pink tourmaline.
Blue sapphire "cornflower" one is the most expensive. 1 carat 550USD.
We'll go to a gem museum in Kandy. You can bargain and get discount.
Lots of talking this morning. I thinks it's Thursday.
Girls school uniform is a white pleated dress and black tie.
Stone book is 29 feet long.
When you marry a local, you must deposit 5000 Rs in an account in her name. While dating the family checks out what they say if they drink, if they went to university. You go to the university and verify the graduation date. Go to the place of work to verify employment for guy and for the girl.
The "Cultural Triangle" covers three ancient cities. Today we go to the second one. We're headed to see the World Heritage Site of the Sacred City of Polonnaruwa. http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/polonnaruva.html and http://www.explorelanka.com/places/ne/polonnaruwa.htm
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Polonnaruwa is the 2nd capital of Sri Lanka after the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993 (the end of the 10th century).
The Indian Chola Dynasty ruled the island at that moment, but after they were driven out Polonnaruva remained the capital. The city had its cultural heyday (reached its height of glory) under the leadership of King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century: the buildings, parks and the large tank date from this period. There were 3 kings here.
Polonnaruva fell to the Hindu Tamils in the 13th century, and became deserted. The capital then shifted east to Kandy. There are many interesting and spectacular buildings and monuments.
Sri Lanka's medieval capital (11th - 12th Century AD) is a well-preserved city of ancient dagobas, moonstones, beautiful parks, massive buildings and stunningly beautiful statues.
The majestic King's Council Chamber, the Lotus Bath, the Lanka Thilaka Viharaya,
Statue of one of Polonnaruwa's great kings, Parakramabahu.
The Sea of Parakrama - a vast 12th century man-made reservoir dominates the city. Although it is nearly 1000 years old, it is much younger than Anuradhapura, and in much better repair. Moreover, the monuments here are located in a more compact area, and their development is easier to follow.
The Royal Palace Group of buildings
First stop is a the Royal Palace Group to see the Palace Quadrant. Then we are going to the village.
The Royal Palace was 1000 rooms over 100 feet. 7 stories high, each story was 10-15 feet high. It had 9-foot thick walls made of lime and sand and white washed. The holes in the walls that you can still see are for the wood beams sockets for tree trunks to support the main building. The remains of 3 brick stories is still standing. Levels above were build of wood. 400 servants lived in the building. There are 13 original granite steps. They carried the king and queen around. Up steps using a chair in the step shaped carrier.
I took a picture of what is remaining of the 3 story main building, another of the small servants room, and the original steps.
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The Palace was connected to the Council Chamber. In 1186 when the king died, the palace was looted and burned.
Walk over to the Audience Chamber. It had a wooden roof. Three level base survives. Around the platform of the hall first layer is elephant running ("glaumphing") chasing each other, second is lions, and third is dogs carrying the building. Oh, I mean "dwarfs", I though he said dogs (as in "dawgs"). It had 48 pillars in four rows. Some carved with titles of dignitaries. They had to use iron tools to carve the stone. There were pillar head beams, pillar open room. Tall audience hall. Now there is now roof. Nice grass all around the audience hall.
The Kumara Pokuna (Royal Baths or Bathing Pool). Unusual geometric shape - a square superimposed on a cross. They bring water from the main canal which is still in use. There is another sophisticated filtration system to catch sediment. Granite stones line the pool, bricks on the outside and water levee goes up to the level of the decoration in the pool of crocodile gargoyle's mouth (or a "makara"). There is also a two level base of a changing room / bathhouse next to the pool.
They encourage locals to excavate by giving rewards if they find something.
To make compost in the pit: Lime, Sand, charcoal, tile and brick.
Steps into the main canal were only build five years ago so people can use it for washing.
Shiva Devale No. 1 (between Royal Palace Group and Quadrangle) Temple dedicated to either Vishnu or Shiva.
Dates back to early 13 century.
This Hindu temple built so close to the city's most sacred Buddhist precinct "says much about their religious sympathies"
It was rebuilt so each stone is marked with code numbers. The structure "has the curious appearance of an enormous building".
Entrance was a stone room with stone roof. The doorway to the next room is small so you must bow to the phallic symbol in the room.
Ladies wash the stone and sit on it and pray to Shiva to get pregnant. (the other 2 gods are Brahma and Vishnu - all incarnations of the same form).
Rams (not "lambs" or dwarfs) hold up this building.
Bronze images were found here which are now in the National Museum in Colombo. My book called images "cute and tiny statuettes of a venerable and heavily bearded figures".
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Now on to the Dala Maluwa (the Quadrangle) - the "terrace of the tooth relic". It is a very compact collection of ruins. The famous tooth relic was actually housed in more than one shrine here is the city.
A very insistent seller is bothering me right now. I'm trying not to acknowledge him.
Started in the SW corner of the Quadrangle with Thuparama, a stone image house called a "Gedige" where "ge" is house. Solid box-like structure built entirely of stone. Strong granite foundation. Exterior wall decorated with pillars and "niche windows offer a characteristically Polonnaruwa example of a quintessentially Indian architectural style used in a purely Buddhist temple. "
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Shoes off to go in here. Inside it looks like a cave: wide at bottom then it curves in on top. There are crocodile gargoyles to remove the water from the roof. The only surviving vaulted brick roof. 10 or 12 century statues. There are 8 standing and seated crystalline limestone Buddha's. limestone rock with quartz so it sparkles when you hold a candle to it. Buddha's face is damaged because the gemstone eyes were removed.
Building with Bodi tree in middle is a "Bodigara". Bring water to tree to give blessings.
The Lotus Mandapa aka the "Nissanka Latha Mandapaya.
Andapa is a pillared structure. Open on all sides and has a roof.
The mandapa has an unusual lattice stone fence. Fit stone to stone like wooden railing Inside the fence a small pavilion surrounded by stone pillars and a dagoba used to either hold relics or a seat for the king, but not both (interpretations of these places is very sketchy).
Sign " NicSamka - name of king 1187-1196 AD Lata Mandapa pavilion where he listened to changing of protective religious text (pirit)." Nissanka Latha Mandapaya
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Atadage built to house the Tooth Relic. Sign "Founded by Vijayabahu-I (1055-1110AD) tooth relic now belongs to Kandy monks."
Hatadage also built to house the Tooth Relic. Sign "Building founded by King Nissan Kamally 12 AD (1187-1196AD)" It now has three Buddha statues. The center Buddha lines up with the doorway. The Buddha on the right is missing his head!
The middle of the quad is the Vatadage, the Circular Relic House. It had two roofs. One in the center, one on the bottom. There are four Buddha's all facing four different directions. Dancing girls are "guard stoned". On each side of the moonstone. The outer structure is a "fantastic riot of artistry. Every surface is carved in a melee of decoration without parallel in the rest of Polonnaruwa.
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Four sets of steps lead to the upper terrace. Each set a little masterpiece, decorated with dwarfs, lions and makaras, carved nagaraja guard stones and the finest moonstones in Sri Lanka. "
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Gal Pota (Book of stone) where "gal" means stone and "pota" means book. Sign says "Gal-pota: An inscription of Nissamka Malla 1187-1196AD. Top to bottom, recorded kings travels and when he invaded India." They dragged the stone on logs for 100 miles / 90km from Mihintale. Weighs 25 tons It's a slab of granite 9 m long, covered in a densely inscribed "panegyric praising the works of Nissankamalla."
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Beside stone book is a Cambodian style stupa to commemorate the king's visit to Cambodia. Satmahal Prasada it means "seven story temple". Very unique design "perhaps the work of Khmer (Cambodian) craftsman. [So that may explain the resemblance of the dancing girls carved on the guard stones (and the "deities in high relief decorating the walls") to the carvings I saw in Angor Wat. For every carving in the Sri Lanka, there must be 100 more in Siam Reap Cambodia.]
Kiri Vehera stupa. The plaster of the done is mostly original and this is the best preserved dagoba in Polonnaruwa. Built by King Parakrama Babu the Great. (1153-118 ad) Next to it Lankatilaka Image House w whose walls still stand 55 feet high (17m).
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We did not make it down to the Southern Group where Pothgul Vihara is located.
But we did stop to see the statue of king Parakramabahu I (king from 1153 - 1186)
11.5 feet (3.5m) tall statue of a bearded man they believe is the king. Not sure what he is holding, a palm-leaf manuscript (book) or a papaya slice.
He expanded the capital area of buildings
Built irrigation systems
Reformed Buddhist practices
Reorganised the army and expanded his kingdom territory South India and Burma
He is famous for the saying "Not even a drop of water that comes from the rain must flow into the ocean without being made useful to man"
Statue of Parakramabahu I (king from 1153 - 1186)
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We went North to Gal-Vihara (rock temple) or "Stone Shrine".
Gal Vihara, a group of very large Buddha-statues. It comprises, besides the Brahmanic monuments built by the Cholas, the monumental ruins of the fabulous garden-city created by Parakramabahu I in the 12th century.
It is a group of carved images of the Buddha. Here there are four colossal figures, all of which are hewn out of solid granite. 2 sitting Buddha's , one standing, 1 reclining with covers. The Reclining Buddha is 46 feet (14m) long.
These statues were inside a brick? temple.
These two pictures beside each other show the entire granite stone shrine where the sitting, standing and reclining Buddhas are carved.
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On the left side: The sitting is Samadhi Statue. Middle Ordinance inscription. Standing and Recumbent (lying or is that "dying").
This photo is from https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/10-most-awesome-giant-buddhas/ "The 10 of the worlds most impressive giant Buddha statues" by Peter Moore, 18 February 2025. Immense in both scale and beauty, these paeans to the Buddhist faith make quite the impression, whether you are a believer or not.
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In the Middle: Buddha is standing. Ordinance inscription.
On the right side: Reclining Buddha, recumbent (lying or is that "dying").
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Lotus flower royal bath.
This is the lotus pool. Royal bath is Kumara Pokuna. When monks sit on the petals and bath water comes to the top.
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There is a buried monastery here. Doesn't look like they have started excavating it yet.
It's noon now. We had ginger biscuits at elevenses.
12:15 and we are on our way to the Polonnaruwa Rest House for lunch. Order meal, go to bank and post office.
Water is 50 Rs for a big 1000 Ml bottle on the bus. Non-stop supply.
Philosopher King Parakramabau The Great:
"Not even a little water that comes from rain must flow into the ocean without being made useful to man"
So our group was getting a little rowdy. We took a vote and decided to replace the water in the cooler with beer so we could have "a cold one" after the safari.
The first place we stopped didn't have any? or enough? beer. 2:00 On our way to the jeep safari and we stopped at another place. It didn't really look like a liquor store to me. Lucien had to collect another Rs 100 (1 dollar) from everyone. We got our beer.
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The Jeep Safari in Minneriya National Park was optional, but everybody did it. Even if you've done something five times before, every time you do it something else unique happens.
Itinerary said optional Jeep Safari in Minneriya National Park 15.00. Look for the Sri Lanka Jungle Fowl, Hanging Parrot, Brown-capped Babbler, Crimson-fronted Barbet, Black-crested Bulbul. Other animals include: sambur, spotted deer, sloth bears. 160 species of birds.
They took us to the Kaudulla National Park for the safari where the entrance is US$6.90 (half the price of most other parks per my Rough Guide tour book). My book says a lake is the centerpiece at Minneriya. At Kaudulla it is the elephants. The park is a corridor for migratory elephants.
In the bus getting here we had pouring rain. We stopped at place to get into the covered jeeps. We rode 30 minutes on the road in trucks. The rain stopped so we took the tops off of the jeeps.
The "museum" on site had an embryo of Ceylon Elephant at 15 months, embryo of spotter deer 7 months, snakes, monkey skulls, and other animal bones.
Only police and ? can own guns. It is illegal for others.
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It was a bumpy muddy ride to a plain near the tank. There are fisherman. Beautiful light blue sky. Big clouds, warm temp. Our three jeeps stopped while we watched these water buffalo walk around us. Spotted dove, peacock, jackle, white neck stork, brahni kite, bees nest.
We saw painted storks standing properly. Showing off their pink bums.
We saw elephants. There are 300-400 elephants in this park.
A herd of water buffalo is running so a group of 6 male elephants charged across our path roaring loudly. Deep bellows and rough gargles from their throat.
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Driving back we stopped because there was jeep stuck in mud (1 ahead of us) They were stuck for 1.5 hours waiting until we came along to help. All drivers help each other push out.
We're in a Mitsubishi. Our driver is Shanaka Chanaka, Elephant and Jeep Safari, Lake Side, Habarana,Sri Lanka
They got the stuck jeep unstucked. Then the jeep ahead of us ( one of our three) got stuck. Passengers got a little splattered with mud.
Other drivers ahead that made it through waited to make sure everybody got through. Next is was our turn. Our driver seemed very confident. And he should be. He go us through with very little effort. Some spinning and slipping but he never seemed nervous about it. No problem for Chanaka. We slid right through.
Well, maybe one small moment of hesitation when rear of jeep slid left and front went right. It was great fun for us as passengers. TIP: Hold on tight, one girl got a very bruised backside from her rough encounter with the hard sides of the jeep.
It was great fun. Our third jeep came through fine also. Sprinkle of rain on the ride back, but we kept the top open.
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Hotel Mihintale tonight.
WHAT AN AWESOME TRIP!
END OF DAY 5
Day 6 Friday Dec 23 Sigiriya, Wood Carving, Spice Garden; Kandy Tooth Temple
Day 7 Saturday Dec 24 Kandy Botanical Gardens, Gem Shop, Elephant Orphanage, Cultural Show
Day 8 Sunday Dec 25 T-shirt Shop, Univ, Tea Factory, Christmas Drive to the Tea Plantation
Day 9 Monday Dec 26 Adams Peak
Day 10 Tuesday Dec 27 Train to Bandarawela, Nuwara Eliya
Day 11 Wednesday Dec 28 Waterfalls, Buduruwagala, Drive to Unawatuna
Day 12 Thursday Dec 29 Galle Tour
Day 13 Friday Dec 30 Unawatuna
Day 14 Saturday Dec 31 Colombo Tour, River Boat Ride, New Years Eve
Day 15 Sunday Jan 1 Colombo, National Museum
Day 16 to Day 22 See The Maldive Journal
Sri Lanka pictures by Galen Frysinger: http://www.galenfrysinger.com/sri_lanka.htm
This page and all other pages in the http://www.mytrips.com web site, along with the journals, images, and photos are Copyright © 2025 by Suzanna Travels. All publication rights are reserved. Email: web@ mytrips.com Remove the space after the @
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